Tag Archives: Utah

Natural Bridges Part 2: Full Canyon Loop Hike and heading home

Natural Bridges is a small enough park that you can really settle in and make it your own without too much work. I decided the year before that I wanted to do the full loop hike, hiking along the canyon bottom and hitting all 3 bridges together. The distance is respectable and even though half is on the mesa and half is in the canyon there is still some surprising ups and downs across the canyon bottom. But it’s all well worth it to be one with the desert.

Hiking across the mesa
Hiking across the mesa

All 3 bridges can be seen in one loop through Natural Bridges, the ranger advised starting out at Owachomo Bridge Parking lot and tackling the hike across the mesa first. The sun can be oppressive so it’s good to tackle the exposed section in the morning and spend the afternoon in the canyon with the odd shade.

Weathered Tree
Weathered Tree

The trail to Sipapu Bridge involves a few ladders and many stairs. And some interestingly weathered trees.

Sipapu Bridge
Sipapu Bridge

It’s hard to give the feeling of size in a picture, Sipapu Bridge is the second largest Natural Bridge in the world behind Rainbow Bridge. For a sense of scale those are full grown Cottonwood Trees looking like bushes below the bridge.

Life in the canyon
A tree in the canyon

The desert above the canyon is known as the Pygmy Forest because the lack of water and nutrients slows the tree’s growth. But in the bottom canyon trees grow tall and pools of water linger long after rains have past.

Native American Ruins
Native American Ruins

The canyon walls are full of relics of the time when the area was full of Anasazi.

Kachina Bridge
Beneath Kachina Bridge

The massive tonnage of rock suspended with nothing below it is mind blowing. See the two hikers beneath for scale.

Indian Kiva
A religious Kiva under the bridge

Much of the canyon has protected Indian relics.

Slickrock carving at the bottom of the canyon
Slickrock carved by coursing water

After seeing the deep canyons around Lake Powell it’s hard to imagine that each was slowly and intricately cut by water through the hard sandstone.

Slickrock under Owachomo Bridge
Slickrock under Owachomo Bridge

Owachomo Bridge is the “Old Man” of the park. The water no longer runs under it after a storm, having etched another route that bypasses the Bridge. Now it just slowly weathers until it will finally collapse.

Plus it was a bit of a relief finally seeing the end of the hike in sight after so many blind curves I expected to be the last turn only to have another canyon curve in the distance.

Comb Ridge
Comb Ridge curves off into the distance.

The hike took most of the day and I wanted to be back to Moab before night fell. But there was still enough time to get some quick pics of Comb Ridge. The ridge stretches in a giant crescent to the south, it’s not very developed but the area is full of Native American history and long rarely visited slickrock canyons. I hope to check it more in depth in the future.

Here is the map full of pictures from the second day down at Natural Bridges:

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Natural Bridges Part 1: The San Rafael Swell and Glen Canyon Roadtrip

When doing the big Southern Utah loop through the National Parks I realized half a day in Natural Bridges was not enough and vowed to go back. The added benefit is I could plan a roadtrip down through San Rafael Swell, Upper Glen Canyon, and leave past Comb Ridge, Canyonlands, and Moab.

Open field
Golden waves of grain

Although the goal was to hike Natural Bridges, getting there is half the fun. Plus some big beautiful storm clouds were chasing me out of Northern Utah. I checked weather.gov beforehand and the storm hitting the north wouldn’t impact me in the south.

Mile marker 68.99 instead of 69.
I guess the alternative was getting stolen too often.

It took me a few second to figure out why they wouldn’t be able to post mile marker 69??…
Oh!  Now I get it!

Barren Landscape in San Rafael
Barren Landscape

It was slightly longer to take I-70 to the monument but I wanted to drive through San Rafael Swell to scout for a future trip. After descending through pine mountains you come out on the barren desert plateau.

San Rafael Swell
Looking over the San Rafael Swell

The San Rafael Swell is currently BLM land very popular with ATV and slot canyon explorers. So far oil and gas interests haven’t been encroaching, but if any unprotected place in Utah is befitting a being elevated to National Park status it’s this place. If you like any of the Utah Mighty 5 parks, you’ll love San Rafael Swell.

Long Straight Road
The Long Straight Road

After I-70 breaks through the broken edge of the Swell it’s a long straight ride across the desert plains that separate the Swell from Canyonlands and the Green and Colorado Rivers.

Slickrock dunes
Slickrock dunes

After a last chance for gas in Hanksville more southward travel changes from desert plains as you start to cut down through the slickrock towards the canyons of the Colorado River. This area is prime slot canyon territory.

Glen Canyon Monuments
Glen Canyon Monuments

The Colorado River sliced through the sedimentary rock carving complex canyons into the desert named Glen Canyon. Covering much of the southern portion of Utah.

The north end of Lake Powell
The north end of Lake Powell

In 1966 Glen Canyon dam was completed 185 river miles away creating Lake Powell. It’s difficult to define where the river ends and the lake begins but Hite crossing is generally considered the north end of Lake Powell. The Lake used to cover the surrounding floodplains but recent drought has left the marina high and dry.

Hite Bridge
Hite Bridge crosses the Colorado

Even though it slices through nearly a quarter of the state the Colorado River only has 3 drive-able river crossings in Utah. Hite and nearby Dirty Devil Bridges were considered “The world’s most beautiful bridges” when completed in 1966. I don’t know about that but the setting could definitely sway the vote.

 Red Rock Plateau
Straight to Red Rock Plateau

After the flat desert plain it’s easy to see why this area of Utah is known as Canyon Country.

Milky Way Galaxy and ISS
The International Space Station crosses the Milky Way

Natural Bridges was the worlds first “International Dark Sky Park.” There are few places with as low of light pollution as this. And in summer the core of the Milky Way is in full view, occasionally the International Space Station and the odd satellite make an appearance as well.

 

Here’s the full roadtrip and all the pictures from the trip:

Photo trip: Highway 12 Roadtrip – Grand Staircase Escalante, Kodachrome, and Bryce

Utah State Route 12 passes through or near 3 of Utah’s National Parks and Monuments, 3 of its State Parks, and has been designated a National Scenic Byway. The highway makes up about half of the drive linking all of Utah’s “Mighty Five” National Parks and makes up the most scenic portion of the drive. (Check the bottom of page for a full map of the trip and many more pictures.)

Beginning of Utah state route 12
The start of Utah’s Scenic Byway 12

The northern end is an unassuming junction in Torrey, the gateway to Capitol Reef National Park.

The Henry Mountains, over Capitol Reef from the Aquarius Plateau
The Henry Mountains, over Capitol Reef from the Aquarius Plateau

The completed highway is one of the newest in Utah; although parts of it have existed before it wasn’t fully paved until the 1985 when the dirt road from Boulder over the mountain to Grover was paved.  From the Aquarius Plateau you can see out over the southern end of Capitol Reef National Park.

Boulder Creek from Higway 12
Boulder Creek from Highway 12

Due to the raw physical terrain building roads in the area was always a challenge. The town of Boulder relied on pack mule for mail service until the Hell’s Backbone road was a completed by the CCC in 1935. Electricity service was not brought to town until 1947.

Highway 12 hogsback
Driving along the top of the Hogsback.

Hell’s Backbone is an exciting road to drive with sharp drop-offs on either side of the highway as it drops down into Calf Creek Canyon. Calf Creek is a great camping site but quite popular and fills up during the busy season (I got a site at 4pm on a Thursday, it was full by 5:30pm).

Upper Calf Creek Falls
Upper Calf Creek Falls. Careful finding you way down from the top.
Underwater Potholes
Erosion beneath the waves

There are 2 main falls in the canyon, Upper and Lower Calf Creek Falls. Lower is much more popular, Upper is just as beautiful but the trails isn’t as well established and has a much more drastic elevation change from the top of the canyon to the bottom.

Head of the Rocks Sunrise
Sunrise at Head of the rocks in Grand Staircase Escalante

A short drive from Calf Creek is the Head of the Rocks overlook. This gives a great view of the Calf Creek area from the opposite end of Hell’s Backbone.

Sunset over Calf Creek canyon
The last rays of Sun

The establishment of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument has made the towns along Highway 12 the prime jumping off points to the northern half of the monument.  There are multiple campsites and RV parks to utilize since GSENM doesn’t have many well developed campsites within yet.

Devil's Garden
Devil’s Garden picnic area, no camping

Shortly before the town of Escalante is the Hole in the Rock road that leads into GSENM. The road is well maintained and well traveled so passenger cars can handle it unless it rains. When it rains it turns to mud that will swallow 4×4 vehicles as well. Avoid the road if wet, not only is there a chance of getting stuck but the muddy ruts damage the road when they dry.  The BLM will actually close the road if it’s bad so be aware as it can affect your plans.

Metatate Arch
Metatate Arch

Halfway down the road is Devils Garden, a cluster of unique slickrock hoo-doos and some delicate arches. Climbing on slickrock is ok but is prohibited on the arches themselves.  The general rule for National Parks and Monuments is: if it’s has a name, you can’t climb on it.

Powell Point
Powell Point

The road continues down into Henrieville and Cannonville, and a short detour south is another main road into GSENM that passes Kodachrome Basin State Park.

The Grand Parade
The Grand Parade. 2 of the white columns can bee see in it.

Kodachrome is more slickrock fins, towers, and arches.  There are also a bunch of geologically unique limestone columns peaking through the sandstone.  Many theories have been given as to their creation, one being that they are remnants of ancient thermal springs and geysers like in Yellowstone, but now the surrounding earth has eroded away leaving the hard-water deposits that were once underground.

Desert Antelope
Desert Antelope with Kodachrome Basin and Bryce Canyon behind

Kodachrome sits below the Bryce Canyon mesa but the type of rock is different so it’s not an extension of the same formaiton.

Below Bryce Canyon
Below Bryce Canyon

The highway climbs from the bottom of the Bryce Canyon amphitheater. From the top of the mesa a short detour off Highway 12 heads into the heart of the park.

Bryce Canyon Monolith
Bryce Canyon Monolith
Bryce Canyon Mesa
Bryce Canyon Mesa
Red Canyon Tunnel
Red Canyon Tunnel in the Dixie National Forest

South past Bryce the highway goes through Red Canyon in the Dixie National Forest before ending at the Highway-89 junction. Many people will continue north to Panguitch as the end point, or turn south at the junction towards Zion National Park (an hour away).

End, Highway 12
End, Highway 12

The full road map and all pictures taken on the trip (the good and bad).

The “Full Moon” is never full

Every time I take pictures of the full moon up close I notice it’s never quite full.  It always looks full with the naked eye but you can never be sure, it looks like it’s slightly off.  Turns out it is.  You’re not imagining things, a full moon is almost never full.

I took some astrophotography pictures through my telescope this weekend hoping to get a nice picture of this year’s “Blue Moon”.  Which isn’t blue BTW, it just means the second full moon of the calendar month; in other words, just another full moon.  But it is a cool event and a reason to take a picture.

Working the picture in Post Production I noticed the same slight edge of the moon not being full I always seem to get.  I took it on the day of the “full moon” but because of my helpful SunSurveyor app I knew ahead of time it wasn’t at 100%.  According to the app it was 99.8% full when I shot it, and would be 99.86% at moonset; the next morning when it rose it would be 99.26% and waning.

2015 full blue moon
The July 31st 2015 Blue Moon

I noticed this happens all the time so I started to wonder if it ever was 100% at some place on the earth after it set for me.  Turns out it’s not, due to orbital mechanics the moon is rarely at 100% full from the earth.  The orbit of the moon is tilted 5 degrees from the earth’s orbit to the sun, so the times that the sun, earth, and moon form a perfect line are kind of rare… And causes lunar eclipses.

So a true 100% full moon is a lunar eclipse (hey, I did get a picture of a few of those!), if you want a nice bright perfect circle full moon take your shot right before or after a lunar eclipse.

Lunar Eclipse
The cloudy night create bookends for the eclipse event.

Or just accept that you’ll always have a rough edge on your full moon shots.

The trail to False Kiva wasn’t as deadly as I thought.

This weekend I took a trip to Canyonlands and took some sunset pictures at “False Kiva” the hike goes down the side of a cliff to an alcove but wasn’t nearly as dangerous as I thought it would be. At worst the trail is 6ft from the edge but the drop-off is only 20ft or so to the next ledge. More of a broken arm fall than a plunge to your death. The trail is a bit strenuous at the kiva but doable for hikers.

I’m so far behind in editing photos it may take a while to get it up but here’s a quick photo of the area since most people see the finished shots. This is where you’re working. There are more ruins in the alcove than just the kiva, and rules posted basically saying stay out of it all. After all it is and archeological burial ground, treat it with respect.

It was Sunday night at the head of the busy season and still had the site to myself. Well except for the 4 very adventurous kangaroo mice that kept threatening to dive into my camera bag.

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New Lightroom CC has native RAW support for Olympus OMD E-M5 Mk II

And not a minute too soon.

Last week I got my new OMD E-M5 Mark II (Electric Boogaloo) and this weekend went on a 3 day Photo Trip down Scenic Utah State Route 12, the Journey Through Time Scenic Byway.  Being the first big trip out I was keen to try out all the cool features, the High-Res mode being at the top of the list.

Then I got home and found that Lightroom didn’t support anything off the camera except JPEGs.  I was able to convert the normal RAW files to DNG using Adobe’s standalone DNG converter but the High-Res .ORI shots weren’t recognized.  So I installed and fired up Olympus Viewer 3 to export the high res files to a format that was supported only to find I couldn’t get it to export to TIFF either.

Then today Adobe released Lightroom 6 (CC 2015).  The release notes don’t mention what support for new cameras are available but after a download, install, and catalog conversion I re-imported all my vacation shots.  All of the RAW files loaded, and better still the High-Res .ORI files imported with no problem.

Basically all is good in the world again.  I feel kind of sorry for all the EM5 part 2 owners who have been doing workarounds for the last 3 months; mostly because I didn’t have to put up with any of that.  Adobe timed the release perfect for me (Sorry fellas!).

Calf Creek Sunset
GSE NP Sunset with Indian Paint Brush.

Rough edit of this weekend’s photo project: Sunset in North Window Arch

This is the rough edit of the picture I wanted to take this weekend, 4 arches and the sun.  This is a single exposure of a 5 shot bracket so I’m hoping to get better definition in the highs and lows of the image but I’m too tired tonight.

I was hoping the sun would set on Turret arch itself but I was pretty sure it would be too far to the right.  Even on the Winter Solstice I don’t think it would move too much further south.  I think the best you would get is it setting in the lump of rock on Turret Arch’s right, not through the arch like I imagined.  I spent the last couple months of time planning and calculating to see how things would line up, I knew the window (lol!) for lining it up would be just a week or 2 before and after the winter solstice.  I’ll try to write up a technical description of what went into planing for this soon (I hope).

Rough edit of North South Turret shot.
Rough edit of North South Turret shot.